You can double-check your mark with a tape measure, but if you have aligned everything square, that should be accurate. Photo: Make With your pieces in hand, use your marks to make Size may be different.
A key difference between the standard degree cuts and the rounded trim corners is the center- piece. The piece will fit in between your two cut pieces to bring the corner together. With your pieces in place, go back to your corner and dry-fit. Align the cut on your length pieces to the mark on the wall to ensure they still fit correctly. Not all corners are degrees. Some are worse than others. Photo: Using your preferred method, consider pre-assembling your pieces for easy installation. Pre-assembly allows us to avoid the complicated process of trying to precisely nail in three separate pieces.
Too many things can go wrong, preventing a seamless, professional-looking trim corner. Photo: Nail your assembled piece to the wall. If you followed the pre-assembly steps, you now have a fully assembled corner piece in hand.
It is time to nail, or fasten, the baseboard to the wall. You may want to prime and paint your pieces before installation. Many professionals offer differing opinions on how to nail corners. Some start at the corner and work their way to each side, while others ensure a tight joint and work their way to the corner and around.
Do what is best for your situation, all homes are different. With the corner piece attached, you should fill any holes left behind from the nails.
Paint when necessary. You are ready to caulk any gaps if needed. Method 1 - Tape and Wood Glue : Simply align the three pieces in the way they will go on the corner.
Then carefully tape them all in place with strips. With the tape applied, place wood glue in between the pieces and fold. Try using additional tape to help hold the pieces together until dry.
Method 2 - Fast Drying Glue : Manufacturers make fast-drying glue that can be used for the purpose of assembling baseboard. But watch out! This glue is very powerful and dries in a matter of seconds. Mark and cut the adjoining piece of baseboard, using the same technique. Again, clean-up splinters or plastic burrs from the edges of the cut once the baseboard cools down.
The easiest way to mark the opposite ends of the baseboards for the straight cuts that will fit against door moldings is to position the baseboard in place and mark where it will fit against the case molding. Where this method is not practical, you can also use a tape measure to determine the cutting length. Set the miter saw at a square 90 degrees, then cut the baseboard pieces off square where they will fit against case moldings or other obstructions.
Position the baseboards in place to test the fit. The miter joint should fit tightly together with no appreciable gap between pieces. If the angles prove to be wrong, you may be able to carefully retrim the ends of the board, making slight adjustments to the saw angle. But avoid the temptation to fill large gaps with wood filler or caulk, since these patches will eventually come apart due to seasonal expansion and contraction. It is generally better to recut new pieces of baseboard with adjusted miter angles to accommodate a corner that is badly out of square.
Usually, you can get by cutting one adjusted piece rather than both baseboards. With a stud finder , locate the wall studs and mark their locations with small tabs of painter's tape. Studs usually run every 16 inches on-center. You won't need to locate studs in corners, as studs are always found there. Tack the baseboard into place by shooting brads at an angle into the wall where the studs are located. Between the nails driven into the studs, alternate with nails positioned near the bottom of the baseboard, so they drive into the wall's soleplate.
After driving the first brad, carefully examine the head of the brad to make sure it is slightly recessed below the surface of the baseboard. If necessary, adjust the tool to change the penetration of the brads. Traditionally, trim molding was nailed by drilling pilot holes, driving finish nails with a hammer, then "setting" recessing the nail heads using a nail set tool.
But a power brad nailer—whether operated by compressed air, batteries, or power cord—makes this work far easier and more accurate. A brad nailer will have limitless uses around the house, so it is well worth buying this tool if you don't already own one. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content.
Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Featured Video. Tip You can use smaller pieces of about 6 inches with opposite 45 degree angles to test-fit corners.
Tip Traditionally, trim molding was nailed by drilling pilot holes, driving finish nails with a hammer, then "setting" recessing the nail heads using a nail set tool. Show Full Article. Your Privacy Rights. To change or withdraw your consent choices for TheSpruce. At any time, you can update your settings through the "EU Privacy" link at the bottom of any page.
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